PRODUCT CARE

All Vision products are made out of quality materials with precision and crafted with care to ensure the highest quality. The life of your fishing gear still depends on how well you care for them. Clean, well-maintained products will always outlast their neglected counterparts by years.

Well-maintained gear also performs better and gives you better Kalaonni!

WADER CARE

Drying

Turn your waders inside out and hang them upright. Hanging them creates for better air circulation. Allow the inside of your waders to fully dry but do not dry in direct sunlight. Once the inside has dried turn them the right way and repeat the drying process. When your waders are 100% dry, fold them gently and store in a cool dry environment. Do not throw them crumpled up in a corner as the material on the outside may soon become damaged by lack of air circulation.

Cleaning

Turn your waders inside out and start by removing any debris paying particular attention to the foot area. Using warm water and a soft sponge gently rub the entire surface of the fabric. Once complete, rinse thoroughly and dry as described. Repeat the cleaning process for the outside of the fabric and again fully dry before storing.

Zip Care

When wearing your zip waders only have the zip fully up or fully down never in between. This will prevent unnecessary stress on the zip, preventing zip failure.

Cleaning the zip of the waders will also ensure it is in good working order. Fully open the zip and using some mild washing liquid and a toothbrush, gently clean up and down the teeth of the zip on both the inside and outside. Then wash it down with clean water.

FLY LINE CARE

Cleaning & Maintenance

A fly line gets dirty like anything else and should be gently cleaned after being used for any length of time. Wet a soft cloth in the mild soapy solution and wipe the fly line down. This action is particularly recommended after saltwater fly fishing or when fishing from the edge of a lake or a river. The fly line will pick plenty of dirt from ground, the bottom of the boat, being stood on and from water as well.

After wiping the line dean, applying a light coating of a fly line dressing will help to re-lubricate the line.

Caution in Use

Modern fly lines do not react kindly with every day chemicals such as sun screen, insect repellents and aerosols. They are notoriously bad for fly lines and will drastically decrease the life of the fly line. Avoid contact with these at all times on your fly line.

Also, avoid leaving a fly line on the dash or in the trunk of a car as the heat will again decrease the life of the fly line.

Removing Twist

When a fly line is used it will eventually get twists and coils. These will come from every day actions like casting and fighthing fish.

When not by the water, unroll and stretch the line out the full length on grass or carpet. Then, with gentle pressure from the thumb and forefinger, starting at the end of the running line, move all the winds to the tip or leader end and out forever.

Fast flowing water or a boat will help you to remove twist. Run all the fly line out to the water for a few minutes. Use gentle thumb and forefinger pressure to help remove coils as you wind in on the reel.

ROD CARE

Store rods with cork handle’s inside to prevent excessive moisture build up or extreme temperature changes.

Always allow the cork to dry naturally after each use and before storing away in the rod tube to prevent mildew and rot.

Take care of the cork by cleaning with mild soapy water on a damp cloth. Do not use chemicals or cleaning solvents. These will eat away at the cork causing it to disintegrate.

Do not paint or varnish, this causes brittleness, cracking and splitting.

Cork will darken with age and use. You can restore the natural lighter colour by “hand” sanding with a very fine grade of sandpaper. Gently sand the whole surface of the handle, being careful not to rub too hard in one area.

ROD BREAKAGE

No matter what people think and say, carbon fibre rods do not usually break if they are used correctly. If there is a fault with the rod it will usually fail within the first use or two under load.

The sad fact is that most rods break from the actions of the fisherman. Sometimes those actions are obvious, like shutting the rod in a car door, other times the breakage is less obvious and less predictable, mainly because the fisherman didn’t know the risks associated with their actions. Here are a few of the more common reasons rods break.

Fly Impact: During fly casting a fly can move through the air at remarkable speeds. Roughly the same speed of a pellet which has been fired from an air rifle. If the section that takes the hit does not break immediately it will almost certainly have suffered internal fractures and is likely to break in the near future when it comes under load.

Javelin: You’re walking along the bank with your rod in your hand and the tip is leading the way, you’re distracted by a rising fish and SNAP, the rod rip has hit the ground, causing too much rod stress and it’s snapped. It's safer to move around the bank with the butt leading the way.

Tree/Rock Snags: So you get snagged in a tree or on a rock. Most people in this situation use the rod to pull or jerk the fly free. If the rod doesn’t break from this stress overload it may break when the tippet snaps. The correct way out of this situation is to lay the rod down somewhere safe so as not to stand on it and only pull on the fly line until the snag is removed. It's also goot to turn your head away from the snag when doing this so you won't get hit straight to the face if the fly pops out with speed.

Rod Tube: All fly rods are supplied with a travel tube, use it. Do not, as many do, put the made up or partially made up rod in the car just to save you time when you get to the bank, it’s sure to end in damage to the rod and even breakages.

180 Degrees: You’re pulling the fly line through the eyes of the rod and you have also not released the drag on your reel enough. You get the line through the last eye and you proceed to pull the line in the direction of the butt. SNAP! After you have finished cursing remember this. The rod is not designed to have 180 degrees of stress applied and this always results in the breakage of the top 3 or 4 inches of the tip. We see this a lot and it’s so easy to avoid. When setting up the rod always support the rod in the mid-section NEVER support the rod by the tip. Release the drag fully and once the line is free of the last eye pull enough out to enable you to take the fly line end back to the butt.

Crane Lift: So you have hooked the fish. It’s not that big so you decide to lift it out of the water into your hand. Just as the fish is in the air it begins to wriggle like mad. The rod tip bounces and bounces as the fish tries to get free. SNAP! The stress of the repeated bouncing and the added weight of the fish has caused your rod to break. Easily avoidable if you use a landing net.

Hands: What’s the first thing you do when a big fish is near the bank or the boat and you want to apply more pressure on the fish? If you place your hand on the rod blank just up from the handle, expect that snapping sound. Handles distribute the stress of a bent rod evenly. Grabbing the rod anywhere else will overstress the rod at the point where you grab it. Since the rod can’t handle the stress, it will break right where your hand is placed.